Folkestone

Ratings

Buggy - suitable if large wheeled.
Carrier - good, Zig Zag path a bit of a slog.
Walking - there is quite a bit of walking to do here, so depends on child.
Wheelchair - similar to buggy, good sized wheels helpful.

Things to note

Lower Coastal Park play area and Fountain Square can get very busy. Weekday or term time visits best, if possible, especially for those who are sensory to noise and crowds.

Don't forget swimming costume for fountains, even if you don't intend to use the beach.

Harbour arm car park rather expensive.

Folkestone

My wife and I have been going to Folkestone for a number of years, even having our "wedding night" there, many years ago!

We had loved the attempts that had been made in Folkestone with the Creative Quarter and the Triennial arts festival, but things didn't seem to be moving forward. We hadn't been to Folkestone since Covid hit, so we were in for a pleasant surprise when we took a trip down memory lane in July 2023.

It has been a long slow process, but it is now possible to see the beginnings of what the Folkestone Harbour Seafront Development Company are trying to achieve. The old station area has been turned into the gateway to a thriving, bustling, eating and drinking area. The tracks have been sunk into the ground and surrounded by a vibrant mix of planting and seating areas.

The harbour wall has been transformed too, with a mixture of bars and eating establishments along the length of the arm. There was even currently a massive screen in the Goods Yard, showing the Ashes cricket when we were down!

Anyway, on to the point of this blog. As previously said, we visited early July, when the kids were at school. I should probably mention at this point that we home-school our Little One.

Days out like this are all part of his education, experiencing things, some of which may stick in his mind in the future. It is difficult to know exactly what he does understand, and what gets through to him, but we try, all the time to give him new experiences!

We parked up at the new harbour wall car park. Number plate recognition as you come in and a shock at the prices as you drive out! We headed for the Lower Leas Coastal Park, which according to the blurb is the largest free adventure park in the South East. The first thing that struck us, as we took the boardwalk across the beach was the new building going up on the shore line, imaginatively called, well Shoreline, a collection of 84 new homes. I have to say they look fantastic and I am envious - if I win the lottery we might well be putting our names down for one! The developers have promised half a million pounds to resurrect the funicular railway, which would be a fantastic sight to see it back in full use and former glory.

The boardwalk was perfectly passable for our large wheeled buggy, but might be a bit more problematic if you have a small wheeled stroller. Little One also took a walk at this stage, he managed the gaps between the wooden boardwalk planks well, but again, the slightly rough terrain might not be for all, something to be aware of.

The Coastal Park is a great place for young children, with a good mixture of different levels of play equipment, from climbing frames, with slides, to giant wooden spiders, and spiders webs to climb. Our Little One loved the time spent here. It helped it wasn't too busy, mainly a collection of grandparents or mums with toddlers, but not too bad. I know from previous visits at weekends this area can get very busy, so if you have a child who doesn't like noise or crowds it would pay to visit during the week or during term time, if you can.

From the play area we walked back to the amphitheatre area to pick up the bottom of the Zig Zag path up to the Upper Leas area. This is a strange path, which as it's name suggests, it zig zags up the cliff face to make the walk up manageable - just. It is quite hard work pushing a large buggy, but the views as you go up are pretty good. The local council have made a good effort of keeping on top of what is now a 100 year old folly, built to employ ex-soldiers after World War I.

Folkestone has a long association with World War I, with nearly 10 million soldiers and ancillary staff passing through what would have been a thriving port at the time. It wasn't nicknamed the Gateway to the Trenches for nothing. As you come up the Zig Zag path and turn right, and walk on past the Leas Cliff Hall, you come across The Step Short Memorial, an impressive arch that commemorates those who departed through Folkestone during World War I.

This is a pleasant area of town, with laid out formal gardens and appears to be a popular spot for both young and old to sit, grab some sunshine and contemplate whatever it is they have to think about.

From our lofty position above the beach we walked back towards the Leas Lift funicular railway. The lift is in a terrible state of repair now and it is quite sad to see it like this. As one of only 8 similar type lifts in the UK, it would be good if it really could be restored to its former glory.

Anyway, we wandered back through town and back down hill through the Creative Quarter down Tontine Street to the seafront.

Here is another very popular area with children in particular, Fountain Harbour Square. That name alone doesn't conjure up much, but this area is home to a series of water fountains, that spray plumes of water into the air. Not surprisingly this is VERY popular with children, local and visitors. It is worthwhile packing swimming shorts/nappy, as I am sure if your child likes water, like ours does, then it's something you won't want to miss. Oh, and for parents there is a pub here, with a large outdoor seating area.

At night the fountains are illuminated and carry out a more structured display - during the day it is just filled with squeals of delight from the children playing in the water.

From the square access can be gained back up to the railway track and the viaduct and swing bridge going over the harbour waters themselves. The swing bridge no longer works, but it has been repainted in a pristine green and planting and seats installed to make it a lovely connecting walkway from the square to the old station area.

Unfortunately on the day we visited the lift connecting the square to the viaduct was out of order, which meant we had to manhandle Little One's buggy up a flight of concrete steps. Fortunately he was able to manage these steps, but it would be something to bear in mind if your child, or you, have mobility issues. Without taking the lift or the steps you would have to walk back round the front of the harbour, past the now not so Grand Burstin hotel, allegedly now ranked the worst hotel in the UK.

My wife and I have stayed there in the past, and weren't too unhappy, but then we had low expectations! The ship like looking hotel is appearing very tired when you get up close. What used to resemble white walls like the White Cliffs of Dover, now shows greying walls, with lumps of masonry missing, in fact the whole front render of the entrance was removed after a collapse in November 2022, which hurt a couple of passers by!

I believe the owners Britannia Hotels are attempting to make good this once gleaming piece of architecture. It would be good if they can as it will stand out like a sore thumb once all the harbourside development is complete - mind you that is a LONG way away...

After visiting Fountain Square we passed through the brick arches of the railway viaduct to find another area of surprise. A short walk alongside the harbour brings you to Sunny Sands beach. Before reaching the beach you will pass by a small gift shop and a lovely ice cream shop. Opposite here you will find Rocksalt, owned and operated by celebrity chef Mark Sargeant. I can't vouch for what the food is like here, as not being sea food fans we have never tried it. I understand it gets very good reviews though. 

While talking about the food situation, as parent to a child who can be VERY noisy when sat to eat we do tend to be selective with where we pick to dine. I know it isn't something he can help, but on occasions we have had some looks from people - their problem I know, and I usually ride it out, but I think some small considerations on our part make situations less stressful for all involved. Some might think that attitude a bit ableist, but I find it tiring enough looking after a child with complex needs, without having to pick further battles.

Anyway, walking on, past the seafood stalls, a few harbourfront pubs and more gift/ice cream shops, brings you to Sunny Sands, marked by the Folkestone Mermaid, a statue created for Folkestone's 2011 Triennial celebration by artist Cornelia Parker.

Beyond this lies the surprising stretch of sand, Sunny Sands beach. This is a paradox to the main beach at Folkestone and along to Sandgate, which is all pebbles, with the odd pockets of sand when the tide goes out. Sunny Sands is just flat sand, save for a small section of rocks at the far end. It's a lovely spot, and when the tide is out there is plenty of room. However, the tide comes in quite quickly here and you can suddenly find yourself hurriedly moving your possessions and quickly surrounded by other beachgoers as space becomes a premium.